Among the many resin-based essential oils is a little-known product called opoponax essential oil. Made from the gum resin of the sweet myrrh tree, Commiphora erythraea, opoponax is one ingredient in the famous Biblical ketoret incense blend, alongside labdanum, benzoin, and frankincense [1]. Although opoponax oil is most famous these days as the essential base note to many famous fragrances such as Coco by Chanel, this musky, almost animalic scent is still used in magical practice today to open the mind to hidden secrets and inner knowledge.

Opoponax can refer to several species of sweet gum-producing myrrh trees, including Commiphora guidotti, C. holtziana, C. pseudopaoli, and C. kataf, or African sweet myrrh [1]. However, most of the opoponax resin and steam-distilled essential oil used in perfumes comes from Commiphora erythraea. The opoponax tree is an evergreen related to the “true” or “bitter” myrrh Commiphora myrrha [2]. Like myrrh and frankincense, opoponax is found in the Mediterranean and North Africa, where it thrives in thin, rocky soil or scree and plentiful sunlight. Somalia is currently considered the biggest exporter of opoponax resin in the world [2].

Opoponax resin is traditionally harvested by making slashes in the bark, causing the tree to exude a red or brown secretion. This resin is collected once it dries into hard nodules that can be steam distilled to produce an essential oil. These nodules of opoponax resin were also once burned as incense during Hebrew ceremonies, or mixed with other ingredients to create the ceremonial incense blend ketoret, as recorded in the Old Testament [1]. Perhaps reflecting this tradition, modern perfumers use opoponax to add balsamic notes to Oriental or “chypre”-type fragrances.

Opoponax resin has had some occasional use in herbal medicine, mostly as an antispasmodic, deobstruent, remedy for hysteria, and to sharpen the senses [3]. People also used it as an emmenagogue, though there is little evidence to support this particular use today [3]. Despite the fact that its cousin, myrrh oil, is highly antiseptic and also an effective analgesic for sore gums and painful joints [3], opoponax oil is not commonly used in aromatherapy and is mostly reserved for use in perfumery and incense making.

That said, opoponax essential oil is often considered a very spiritual oil: opoponax is used in divination and magical work to open the mind to occult knowledge, to learn what is hidden, and to effect change in the subconscious as the first step to making a conscious change in one’s personal or professional life [4]. The oil is associated with the planet Pluto in astrology [4].

You can diffuse opoponax essential oil from an oil diffuser or burner to encourage receptivity to spiritual forces, or wear some as perfume and absorb its centering vibrations all day long. Opoponax oil is generally non-sensitizing and non-irritating, but like all essential oils, it should be patch-tested before use and applied only in dilution [4]. Oil of opoponax provides the base note or undertone to many famous perfumes, including Opium by Yves St Laurent, Coco by Chanel, and Shalimar by Guerlaine [5]; this resinous oil’s rich tones of black tea, incense and amber lovingly anchor lighter floral and citrus notes such as lavender, rose, bergamot, and lemon, and melt into richer scents such as vanilla and sandalwood for a truly “scentuous” experience!

REFERENCES

1. Ali, Naheed Shoukat. “Opoponax. Lat. Commiphora erythraea”. Fragrantica. Accessed July 23rd, 2014. http://www.fragrantica.com/notes/Opoponax-37.html.

2. “Opopanax”. Wikipedia. Last modified July 21st, 2014. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Opopanax.

3. Grieve, M. “A Modern Herbal | Opoponax”. Accessed July 23rd, 2014. https://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/o/opopon10.html.

4. Roth, Harold A. “Opoponax Essential Oil” Alchemy Works. Accessed July 23rd, 2014. http://www.alchemy-works.com/essential_oils_opoponax.html.

5. “Opoponax: Velvet and Smoke Perfume Ingredient”. Bois de Jasmin: Perfume and Other Fragrant Pleasures. Last modified May 31st, 2012. http://boisdejasmin.com/2012/05/opoponax-velvet-and-smoke-perfume-ingredient.html.

The plant Acorus calamus has been known by many complimentary names throughout history, including “sweet flag”, “sweet cane”, “sweet grass”, “sweet cinnamon”, and “myrtle grass”. As the name suggests, calamus root has been a valued ingredient in perfumery and cooking for centuries—especially in medieval Europe and Asia, where it was often used a substitute for cinnamon, ginger, and nutmeg due to the sweet, cinnamon-like scent of its roots [1]. Calamus essential oil has likely been used even longer as a perfume ingredient, and it’s still prescribed in American herbalism for stomach conditions such as gastritis, to calm nerves, and to relieve fatigue [1].

Acorus calamus is a perennial marsh plant with upright, flat green leaves. It grows in wetland areas and the margins of lakes, ponds and rivers, though it can tolerate drier soil if the shoreline recedes. Calamus also has a yellow cone-like flowering body reminiscent of a pine cone, and strongly scented roots that are harvested to distill the essential oil [2]. Although calamus isn’t a remarkable plant visually, it is notable for coming in three genetic variants with different numbers of chromosomes [3]. The native North American variety, Acorus calamus var. americanus, is diploid, meaning it has two sets of chromosomes, while the Asian variety Acorus calamus var. angustatus is tetraploid, with four sets of chromosomes. An infertile triploid form, Acorus calamus var. calamus, is thought to have been created somewhere in the Himalayas by crossing the diploid and tetraploid calamus varieties. This infertile variety is now the most common calamus in Asia due to propagation by humans [3].

A mention of calamus essential oil as a perfume ingredient appears in the Chester Beatty Egyptian Papyrus IV dating from 1300 BC [3]. Calamus root also appears in the Old Testament (Exodus 30: 23-25) as an ingredient in holy anointing oil, in which it was steeped in olive oil along with cinnamon, cassia bark, and myrrh [4]. More recently, calamus roots were used as a strewing herb in the Middle Ages along with lavender in the belief their scent repelled fleas [1]. In Asia, calamus root was prized as a digestive tonic and was processed into several edible forms: calamus roots could be steeped in water to make a tea or decoction, boiled to make simple syrups and calamus candy, or simply chewed after meals [1].

Calamus root from Acorus calamus var. americanus had somewhat different uses among indigenous Native Americans. In North America, the whole calamus root was typically either chewed or held in the mouth beside the cheek. Calamus root was used to prevent or alleviate fatigue during long journeys, to calm the mind while removing fears and anxieties, and to improve focus during long sweat lodge ceremonies. Calamus was also taken as a lozenge to soothe a sore throat caused by the prolonged singing often involved in these ceremonies [2].

Today, calamus root and calamus essential oil appear in American herbalism as remedies for GI disorders such as upset stomach, flatulence, constipation, loss of appetite, ulcers, and gastritis [2]. The inhalation of calamus oil was also recommended in Ayurveda to relieve nasal congestion and as a prophylactic against the common cold [2]. However, while whole calamus root is edible, calamus essential oil can cause seizures and delirium if ingested and should never be taken internally. Pregnant or nursing women should also avoid calamus oil. Finally, calamus oil should always be used sparingly in dilution [1].

Emotionally, calamus oil has both stimulant and relaxant properties when its sweet-spicy aroma is inhaled; it can be used to calm anxious mental states and panic attacks, and is especially reputed for calming the physical symptoms associated with anxiety, such as dizziness and a queasy stomach [2]. Herbalists think calamus may work this way by acting as a mild muscle relaxant [2]. With its uplifting and warm scent, calamus essential oil is often used in Angel magic, white magic, and as a Sun scent in blends with cedarwood, frankincense, cinnamon, lime, orange, patchouli, and sandalwood.

REFERENCES

1. “Calamus”. WebMD. Accessed June 20th, 2014. http://www.webmd.com/vitamins-supplements/ingredientmono-778-CALAMUS.aspx?activeIngredientId=778&activeIngredientName=CALAMUS&source=0.

2. MacDonald, Jim. “Sweet Flag/Bitter Root; Acorus calamus var. americanus”. Herbcraft. Accessed June 20th, 2014. http://www.herbcraft.org/calamus.html.

3. “Acorus calamus”. Wikipedia. Last modified June 19th, 2014. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acorus_calamus.

4. Roth, Harold A. “Calamus Root Essential Oil”. Alchemy Works. Accessed June 20th, 2014. http://www.alchemy-works.com/essential_oils_calamus.html.

Oakmoss essential oil is one of those perfume ingredients you see listed in so many articles on aromatherapy as well as ingredient lists; yet it is not often that readers get a clear definition of what oakmoss is. As the name suggests, oakmoss is commonly found on or near the trunks of mature oaks; however, it is not a moss but actually a lichen that grows on both deciduous and coniferous trees. Oakmoss essential oil has been distilled for use in perfumery since at least the 16th century, and its woody, almost animalic scent is still much valued as a base note in commercial fragrances [1].

The specific kind of lichen that yields genuine oakmoss essential oil is Evernia prunastri, a species native to the mountainous forests of the Northern Hemisphere, especially central and western Europe [2]. Growing on the trunks or branches of mature oaks and other trees, oakmoss lichen has strap-like branches called thalli that resemble deer antlers in shape. Oakmoss thalli are greenish gray and tough when dry, and turn a rubbery olive green when wet. Oakmoss essential oil is used extensively in perfumery today for its complex scent, which has been described as woody, sweet, and sharp. The aroma of oakmoss oil varies depending on whether it is distilled as an essential oil or a more concentrated absolute oil; the essential oil is generally considered to have a lighter scent, while the richer absolute oil possesses a muskier scent with an almost leathery undertone [3]. Oakmoss oil’s complex array of odors can even be affected by what type of tree the lichen is growing on: some oakmosses that grow on coniferous trees are specially sought for their turpentine-like base tones, which add a refreshing sharpness to specific perfumery blends.

Though not as historically famous an essence as labdanum, frankincense, or myrrh, archaeological evidence suggests that oakmoss oil was known in the ancient Mediterranean world: baskets full of dried oakmoss lichen have been discovered in Egyptian tombs, though it is unclear whether the lichen was being stored to make fragrances or as food [1]. A competing theory suggests that oakmoss, which contains a starchy edible substance inside its thalli, was being stored as a potential emergency food supply.

In North America, Native Americans called oakmoss lung wort or lung moss. Various tribes frequently dried the lichen and used it as a folk treatment for respiratory ailments such as respiratory congestion, irritation, chest cough, and even bronchitis [4]. The dried lichen was also used as a poultice to speed wound healing [4]. Though neither of these medicinal uses have yet been investigated for their effectiveness in a clinical setting, oakmoss’s traditional association with respiratory health does suggest some fascinating avenues for future research!

For the time being, it seems that oakmoss will continue to be sought after as a fixative, fragrance, and exotic perfume ingredient, especially in Oriental and “chypre”-type blends [3]. The traditional base note of fougère perfume, oakmoss essential oil is also commonly used as a fixative in blends and soaps, since its rich scent helps anchor more fleeting notes, especially citruses. In recent years, international regulations have limited the allowed amount of oakmoss oil in perfume blends to 0.1% after evidence came to light that it can be a dermal irritant in larger quantities [3].

So, when making your own blends it is also best to blend a minute quantity of oakmoss essential or absolute oil with other essential oils in a neutral base such as almond, jojoba or olive oil. Adding oakmoss oil to your blend will also allow you to take advantage of the oil’s prized fixative qualities! As mentioned above, oakmoss oil is stellar at anchoring more delicate scents in a fragrance blend and helping them last even longer. Ideal for bringing out tender floral and citrus notes such as lavender, neroli, and bergamot, oakmoss essential oil provides a comforting base note that can add dimension and intrigue to any fragrance.

REFERENCES
1. “Oak Moss”. Encyclopaedia Britannica Online. Accessed June 18th, 2014. http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/423437/oak-moss.

2. “Evernia prunastri”. Wikipedia. Last modified June 6th, 2014. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Evernia_prunastri.

3. Milojevic, Marina. “Oakmoss Perfume Ingredient”. Fragrantica. Accessed June 18th, 2014. http://www.fragrantica.com/notes/Oakmoss-39.html.

4. “Base Note Oils – Oakmoss Oil”. Accessed June 18th, 2014. http://ladylisa.usting.com/Base_Note_Oil_s/base_note_oil_s.html#Oakmoss.

Few historical “vices” have persisted in contemporary legend as has absinthe, the alcoholic drink made from the leaves of the wormwood plant. However, those of you excited to try absinthe, now that it has once again been made legal in the U.S., may be disappointed to learn that the legends of the green “muse” of Parisian artists and writers may be more interesting than the facts; most likely, the effects attributed to the wormwood in 19th-century absinthe were actually a result of good old alcohol intoxication. However, that doesn’t mean wormwood is without its uses: the herbage of wormwood has demonstrated benefits as a gastric stimulant, stomachic, tonic for indigestion, and remedy for intestinal parasites [1]. Wormwood essential oil may also be used in minute quantities as a perfumery agent to give fragrances a unique licoricey undertone.

There are several plants in the genus Artemisia of which wormwood is a member, including Artemisia abrotanum (southernwood), A. dracunculus (tarragon), A. vulgaris (mugwort), and A. annua (sweet annie) [2]. It’s very important when purchasing essential oils to pay attention to the genus-species of the plant, because all these Artemisia species have very different chemical profiles and uses in aromatherapy and herbal medicine. Wormwood is Artemisia absinthium, a perennial herbaceous plant with silvery green feathery leaves. It is native to temperate Eurasia and North Africa [1].

In Europe and Asia, the bitter leaves of wormwood were commonly brewed into a tea and taken to treat intestinal parasites, relieve indigestion, and stimulate gastric juices [1, 3]. In fact, the name wormwood–from the Middle English “wormwode”–is a direct reference to the use of wormwood to kill intestinal parasites (worms) [1]. The leaves were sometimes added to beer as a flavoring agent, along with mugwort and English ivy, before Bavarian purity laws restricted beer ingredients to hops, barley, sugar and water. The practice of adding wormwood to beer may have been the original inspiration for absinthe, an alcoholic drink flavored with wormwood and other herbal additives that skyrocketed in popularity among the artistic set of Continental Europe in the mid-1800s [5].

A classic glass of absinthe, with slotted spoon and sugar cube. Traditionally, water is drizzled through the sugar cube to sweeten the drink.

During its heyday, absinthe was considered the drink of choice for artists, writers and other bohemian creative types in Europe, especially Paris, and its inspirational properties were praised by the likes of Vincent Van Gogh, Oscar Wilde, and Edgar Allen Poe [5]. However, absinthe experienced a dramatic reversal in the early 1900s when it was implicated in a disorder called absinthism, which led to the drink being banned for the next seventy years. Physicians of the time described absinthism as a condition characterized by seizures, debility, mental illness, hallucinations, and violent behavior, and they blamed the wormwood in absinthe as the cause [5].

Wormwood was probably implicated in absinthism because it contains thujone, a compound which can be neurotoxic in large doses [5]. However, the levels of thujone in absinthe are not enough to cause harm [4]. Most researchers today believe that what 19th-century doctors called absinthism was likely a result of alcohol abuse, a condition poorly understood at that time [5]. Another explanation is that some inferior brands of absinthe were dyed bright green using toxic compounds such as copper sulfate or antimony chloride, which caused brain damage in those unfortunate enough to consume these inferior brands [5]. When buying absinthe even today, it’s important to only buy brands that have not been artificially dyed green, blue or another color. High-quality absinthe is naturally green due to the presence of chlorophyll [5].

Wormwood essential oil is not absinthe and should never be taken internally, as it is an oral toxin that can induce kidney failure and seizures due to its high thujone content [1]. For this reason, wormwood oil is not used in aromatherapy. It may be used in minute quantities as part of an exotic perfume blend along with other licorice-like or floral essential oils such as anise, lavender, oakmoss and neroli.

Interestingly, a recent double-blind placebo-controlled study examined the potential of a herbal wormwood preparation made from the fresh leaves to relieve the symptoms of Crohn’s Disease [4]. Both groups of subjects had their Crohn’s Disease under control through standard steroid therapy before the study. During the trial, the steroid therapies were reduced and the experimental group was given a preparation of wormwood while the control group received no additional treatment. The control group experienced the expected worsening of symptoms, while the wormwood-treated group actually had an improvement in their symptoms, apparently due to the wormwood [4]. Though the researchers cautioned that more studies are needed, we thought this little tidbit about wormwood’s potential for treating Crohn’s Disease was worth sharing with all of you!

REFERENCES

1. “Artemisia absinthium”. Wikipedia. Accessed May 5th, 2014. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artemisia_absinthium.

2. “Artemisia (Genus)”. Wikipedia. Accessed May 5th, 2014. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artemisia_(genus).

3. Grieve, M. “A Modern Herbal: Wormwoods.” Botanical.com. Accessed May 5th, 2014. https://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/w/wormwo37.html.

4. “Wormwood | Artemisia absinthium | Common Wormwood”. NYU Langone Medical Center. Last modified August 2013. http://www.med.nyu.edu/content?ChunkIID=111819.

5. Lux, Erowid F. November 2007. “The Absinthe Engima: Resurgence of a Legendary Spirit.” Erowid Extracts 13: 12-14.